The History of Burberry
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The History of Burberry: From Humard Beginnings to Global Icon
Burberry has long been a cornerstone in the world of luxury fashion, with its iconic check pattern recognized globally. Yet, the brand’s legacy extends far beyond a simple pattern. It’s a story of resilience in the face of challenges, and an uncanny ability to balance its deep-rooted traditions with modern sensibilities. How did a company founded by a 21-year-old in the 1800s manage to sustain its dominance in the fashion industry for more than 150 years? To truly appreciate Burberry’s remarkable journey, we must delve deeper into its history, exploring its origins, innovations, and the visionaries who shaped its path.
Thomas Burberry: The Genesis of a Visionary Brand
The tale of Burberry begins with the birth of Thomas Burberry in 1835 in the small town of Basingstoke, located in southern England. Thomas was born into a modest family in a rural community where the primary occupation was farming. However, from a young age, Thomas realized that he did not want to spend his life working in the fields. Instead, he sought out an apprenticeship at a local draper’s shop, where his love for fabrics and garment construction began to blossom.
At the draper’s shop, Thomas learned the art of “draping” — the practice of positioning fabric on a 3D model to understand how it would sit on the human body. Although he wasn’t yet designing garments, this experience proved invaluable. It introduced him to the intricacies of different cuts, proportions, and the technical aspects of garment construction. More importantly, it ignited his passion for fashion and laid the foundation for his future endeavors.
In 1856, at the age of 21, Thomas Burberry decided to take a bold step and open his own shop in Basingstoke. This decision marked the beginning of what would eventually become one of the most iconic fashion houses in the world. From the outset, Burberry made it clear that his brand would prioritize functionality over flashiness. Growing up in a farming community, Thomas understood that clothing needed to be durable and practical, capable of withstanding harsh conditions. This philosophy influenced his early designs, which focused primarily on outerwear — a category that would come to define the Burberry brand.
The Birth of Gabardine: A Revolutionary Fabric
As Thomas Burberry continued to develop his brand, he became increasingly focused on creating outerwear that was not only functional but also comfortable and stylish. His early exposure to the challenges of draping, combined with his understanding of the needs of those who worked outdoors, led him to experiment with different fabrics. He recognized that traditional materials were either too heavy, too stiff, or simply not weather-resistant enough for the unpredictable British climate.
In 1879, after years of experimentation, Thomas Burberry invented gabardine, a tightly woven fabric that was both lightweight and water-resistant. Gabardine was created by weaving strands of cotton or wool extremely tightly at a perfect 90-degree angle. This unique construction resulted in a fabric that was not only difficult for moisture to penetrate but also flexible enough to allow for a full range of motion. At the time, this was nothing short of revolutionary. Gabardine offered a level of comfort and protection that was unmatched by any other fabric on the market.
Recognizing the significance of his invention, Burberry patented gabardine in 1888. The patent ensured that Burberry had exclusive rights to produce and sell garments made from this fabric, giving the brand a significant competitive advantage. Gabardine quickly became one of Burberry’s most important selling points, setting the brand apart from its competitors and establishing its reputation for innovation and quality.
The introduction of gabardine not only revolutionized the outerwear market but also had a profound impact on the fashion industry as a whole. It allowed for the creation of garments that were both functional and stylish, catering to the needs of a growing middle class that was increasingly interested in outdoor activities such as horse riding, hunting, and even exploring distant lands. Burberry’s gabardine suits were marketed as the ideal attire for these pursuits, and the brand quickly gained a loyal following among adventurers and aristocrats alike.
Expanding the Brand: From Basingstoke to London
With the success of gabardine, Burberry’s reputation began to spread beyond the small town of Basingstoke. By the late 1880s, the brand had become well-known throughout England for its high-quality, durable outerwear. However, Thomas Burberry had much grander ambitions for his brand. In 1891, he capitalized on the growing popularity of gabardine by opening Burberry’s first store in London, on the prestigious Haymarket Street.
The move to London was a pivotal moment in Burberry’s history. London was, and still is, one of the world’s fashion capitals, and establishing a presence there helped cement Burberry’s status as a leading brand in the industry. The London store attracted a wealthy and influential clientele, including members of the British aristocracy, who were drawn to Burberry’s blend of functionality and elegance.
As Burberry’s popularity grew, so did its association with adventure and exploration. In 1893, Dr. Fridtjof Nansen, a Nobel Peace Prize laureate and renowned explorer, famously sailed the Arctic Circle while dressed in Burberry gabardine. Nansen’s successful expedition, under such extreme conditions, added immense credibility to Burberry’s claims about the durability and versatility of its products. It also marked the beginning of a long tradition of Burberry outfitting explorers, adventurers, and even military personnel in some of the world’s most challenging environments.
The Equestrian Knight: Establishing a Brand Identity
As the 19th century drew to a close, Burberry began to focus on solidifying its brand identity. Up until this point, much of the brand’s marketing had emphasized the performance of its products rather than their aesthetic appeal. However, Thomas Burberry understood that as his brand grew, it would need a stronger visual identity to distinguish itself in an increasingly competitive market.
In 1901, Burberry took a significant step toward establishing its visual identity by hosting a public contest to design a logo for the brand. The winning design, known as the Equestrian Knight Device, featured a knight on horseback holding a shield with the Latin word “Prorsum,” meaning forward. The logo symbolized the brand’s commitment to innovation, progress, and quality — values that had been central to Burberry since its inception.
The Equestrian Knight Device was more than just a logo; it was a statement of the brand’s identity. The knight, a symbol of honor and tradition, represented Burberry’s heritage, while the word “Prorsum” highlighted the brand’s forward-thinking approach. The logo reinforced the idea that Burberry was not just a maker of practical clothing, but a luxury brand that embodied the ideals of British elegance and refinement.
The Trench Coat: From Military Necessity to Fashion Icon
As Burberry entered the 20th century, the brand continued to innovate, and one of its most significant contributions to fashion came during World War I. When the war broke out in 1914, trench warfare became a common strategy, and soldiers found themselves spending long periods of time in cold, muddy, and cramped conditions. Recognizing the need for a practical garment that could withstand these harsh conditions, Thomas Burberry set out to create a new type of coat.
The result was the trench coat — a water-resistant, comfortable, and durable coat that was long enough to cover a soldier’s ankles, yet light enough to allow for easy movement. The trench coat featured shoulder straps for attaching epaulets, deep pockets for storing maps and other essentials, and a double-breasted front for added protection against the elements. It was a perfect example of Burberry’s ability to blend functionality with style.
The British Army quickly adopted the trench coat, and it became standard issue for officers during the war. The coat’s success on the battlefield soon translated to civilian life, and after the war, the trench coat became a popular fashion item among both men and women. Its timeless design and association with military heroism helped it to become one of Burberry’s most iconic products — a status it maintains to this day.
The Burberry Check: A Pattern Becomes Iconic
By the 1920s, Burberry was already a well-established brand in England, known for its high-quality outerwear and its innovative use of gabardine. However, the brand’s visual identity was still evolving. In 1920, Thomas Burberry’s sons, who had taken over the business after his retirement in 1917, introduced a new element that would become central to the brand’s identity: the Burberry check.
The Burberry check, sometimes referred to as the Nova check, is a simple yet distinctive pattern that features a blend of tan, black, white, and red stripes. When it was first introduced, the check pattern was used primarily as the lining for Burberry’s trench coats. This subtle use of the pattern was intentional; it allowed Burberry to add a unique touch to its products without overwhelming the overall design.
Over time, the Burberry check became more prominent, appearing on scarves, handbags, umbrellas, and other accessories. This gradual expansion of the check pattern helped to build a visual identity for the brand that was instantly recognizable yet understated — a perfect reflection of Burberry’s commitment to elegance and quality. The check pattern became a symbol of British sophistication and was embraced by fashion-forward consumers around the world.
Surviving the Great Depression and World War II
The 20th century was a tumultuous period for the global economy, and Burberry, like many other brands, faced significant challenges during this time. The Great Depression of the 1930s and the outbreak of World War II in 1939 had a profound impact on the fashion industry. During these periods of economicturmoil, many luxury brands struggled to survive as consumers became more frugal and less likely to spend on non-essential items. However, Burberry’s focus on functionality, quality, and a reputation for durability helped it navigate these challenging times.
During the Great Depression, Burberry’s emphasis on practical, long-lasting clothing resonated with consumers who were looking for value in their purchases. The brand’s products, especially its trench coats and outerwear, were seen as investments that could withstand years of wear and tear. This focus on practicality helped Burberry maintain its customer base even as discretionary spending decreased.
World War II brought its own set of challenges, particularly with supply chain disruptions and rationing of materials. However, Burberry’s strong ties to the military once again proved advantageous. The brand continued to produce trench coats for the British Army, and these garments became symbols of resilience and endurance during the war. The trench coat’s association with the bravery and determination of soldiers further solidified its status as a fashion icon.
Despite the hardships of the era, Burberry also recognized the need to adapt and diversify its product offerings. To ensure the brand’s survival and growth, Burberry began to expand its range beyond outerwear. The company introduced everyday clothing items such as shirts, sweaters, and accessories, broadening its appeal to a wider audience. This diversification strategy laid the groundwork for Burberry’s post-war expansion and success.
Transition to Corporate Ownership: The 1950s and Beyond
In 1955, after successfully guiding the brand through some of its most challenging periods, Thomas Burberry’s sons retired and sold the company to Great Universal Stores PLC (GUS), a British retail and manufacturing conglomerate. The sale marked the end of Burberry as a family-owned business and the beginning of a new chapter in the brand’s history.
Whenever a conglomerate takes over a family-owned brand, there is always concern about the potential loss of the brand’s identity and heritage. However, in Burberry’s case, GUS recognized the value of the brand’s history and worked to preserve its core principles while also seeking opportunities for growth and expansion.
Under the ownership of GUS, Burberry continued to innovate and expand its product range. The 1960s saw a significant development when Jacqueline Dillemman, an employee at Burberry’s Paris store, inadvertently sparked a new trend. While setting up a store display, she used the Burberry check pattern lining from a trench coat to wrap luggage and create an umbrella. Customers were immediately drawn to these accessories, and they quickly became bestsellers.
Recognizing the commercial potential, Burberry began to produce a wide range of check-patterned accessories, including scarves, hats, and handbags. The Burberry check, once a subtle lining, became a prominent feature of the brand’s offerings and a key element of its identity. This move toward commercialization helped Burberry expand its customer base and increase brand visibility, but it also marked a shift away from the brand’s earlier “stealth wealth” approach, where luxury was expressed through quality and craftsmanship rather than overt branding.
Reinventing the Brand: The Rose Marie Bravo Era
By the mid-1990s, Burberry faced a new set of challenges. The brand had become increasingly mainstream, and its once-exclusive image had begun to dilute. Counterfeit Burberry products flooded the market, and the brand’s association with luxury was at risk. Additionally, Burberry’s traditional customer base was aging, and the brand needed to appeal to a younger, more fashion-conscious audience.
In 1997, GUS appointed Rose Marie Bravo as the new CEO of Burberry, a decision that would prove transformative for the brand. Bravo, a seasoned executive with experience at Saks Fifth Avenue and Macy’s, was brought in to revitalize Burberry and restore its status as a leading luxury brand.
One of Bravo’s first major moves was to streamline the brand’s identity. Up until that point, the official name of the company had been “Burberrys,” with an “s.” Bravo decided to drop the “s,” rebranding the company simply as “Burberry.” This subtle change gave the brand a more modern, singular identity that resonated with contemporary consumers.
Bravo also recognized the need to update the brand’s visual identity and brought in art director Fabien Baron to simplify and modernize the Burberry logo. The updated logo, while not drastically different, gave the brand a cleaner, more sophisticated image that aligned with its new direction.
Perhaps Bravo’s most impactful decision was the introduction of supermodel Kate Moss as the face of Burberry’s fall/winter 1999 campaign. Moss, already one of the most recognized models in the world, brought a fresh, edgy appeal to the brand. The campaign featured Moss in iconic Burberry pieces, including the trench coat, but with a modern, provocative twist. The images, shot by renowned photographers, presented Burberry as both luxurious and fashion-forward, appealing to a younger, trendier audience.
The success of the Kate Moss campaign was immediate and profound. It not only revitalized Burberry’s image but also attracted a new generation of customers. According to Bravo, the campaign reduced the average age of Burberry’s customer base by about 30 years, a remarkable achievement that set the stage for Burberry’s resurgence as a global fashion powerhouse.
The Christopher Bailey Revolution
In 2001, continuing her efforts to modernize and reposition Burberry, Rose Marie Bravo hired Christopher Bailey as the brand’s new design director. Bailey, a relatively unknown designer at the time, had previously worked under Tom Ford at Gucci, where he had honed his skills in blending luxury with modernity.
Bailey’s appointment marked the beginning of a new era for Burberry. From the outset, he made it clear that he intended to steer the brand away from over-reliance on the Burberry check pattern, which had become ubiquitous to the point of being overexposed. In his debut collection, Bailey made a bold statement by not featuring the check pattern at all. This decision was a clear indication that Burberry was more than just a brand defined by a single pattern; it was a fashion house with a rich heritage and a diverse range of offerings.
Bailey’s vision for Burberry was rooted in a deep respect for the brand’s history, combined with a forward-thinking approach to design. He introduced new silhouettes, fabrics, and color palettes that resonated with contemporary tastes while maintaining the brand’s signature elegance and quality. His collections often drew inspiration from British heritage, blending traditional elements with modern twists that appealed to both established and new customers.
Bailey also played a key role in Burberry’s embrace of digital technology, a move that would prove crucial in the 21st century. In 2009, under Bailey’s creative leadership, Burberry launched its now-iconic “Art of the Trench” campaign, a groundbreaking digital initiative that invited customers to submit photos of themselves wearing Burberry trench coats. The campaign was a huge success, significantly boosting Burberry’s online presence and e-commerce sales.
Bailey’s influence extended beyond the runway. In 2014, he was appointed CEO of Burberry, making him the first creative director of a major fashion house to hold both the creative and executive reins simultaneously. His dual role allowed him to ensure that the brand’s creative vision was seamlessly integrated into its business strategy.
However, this concentration of power also led to concerns among some shareholders, and in 2017, Burberry announced that Marco Gobbetti, a former executive at CELINE, would replace Bailey as CEO, while Bailey would remain as Chief Creative Officer. Despite these changes, Bailey continued to be a driving force behind Burberry’s creative direction until his departure from the company in 2018.
The Riccardo Tisci Era: A Bold New Direction
In 2018, Burberry entered another new chapter with the appointment of Riccardo Tisci as Chief Creative Officer. Tisci, an Italian designer with a strong background in haute couture and streetwear, had previously made a name for himself at Givenchy, where he had successfully revitalized the brand with his dark, romantic aesthetic.
Tisci’s appointment signaled a shift in Burberry’s creative direction. Known for his bold and sometimes provocative designs, Tisci brought a fresh energy to the brand. One of his first major changes was the introduction of a new Burberry logo, designed in collaboration with Peter Saville, the graphic designer known for his work with Joy Division. The new logo was modern and minimalist, reflecting Tisci’s vision for the brand’s future.
Tisci also introduced a new monogram, featuring interlocking “T” and “B” initials, as a tribute to the brand’s founder, Thomas Burberry. The monogram was prominently featured in Tisci’s debut collection for Burberry, which showcased a blend of traditional British fashion elements with a contemporary streetwear edge. The collection received mixed reviews, but it clearly established Tisci’s intention to push Burberry in a new direction.
Throughout his tenure, Tisci continued to experiment with Burberry’s identity, blending the brand’s heritage with his own distinctive style. His collections often featured a mix of high-fashion pieces and more accessible streetwear, appealing to a diverse audience. Tisci’s work at Burberry was divisive at times, but it also demonstrated his commitment to innovation and his willingness to take risks.
In September 2022, Burberry announced that Tisci would be stepping down from his role as Chief Creative Officer. The reasons for his departure were not made explicit, but it was clear that his tenure had left a lasting impact on the brand, further solidifying its position as a leader in the global fashion industry.
Daniel Lee: A New Vision for a Storied Legacy
Following Tisci’s departure, Burberry made another significant appointment by bringing on board Daniel Lee as the new Chief Creative Officer in 2022. Lee, a British designer who had previously revitalized Bottega Veneta with his innovative designs, was seen as the perfect candidate to lead Burberry into its next chapter.
Lee, known for his minimalist approach and knack for combining luxury with understated elegance, was widely regarded as one of the most promising young designers in the industry. His work at Bottega Veneta had turned the brand into a global sensation, largely due to his introduction of new silhouettes and the rebranding efforts centered around a distinctive green color. His ability to rejuvenate Bottega Veneta’s image while maintaining its core identity made him an ideal choice for Burberry, a brand that had similarly struggled with balancing its heritage with modern relevance.
Upon taking the reins at Burberry, Daniel Lee wasted no time in making his mark. One of his first actions was to reintroduce the iconic equestrian knight motif, a nod to the brand’s storied past. This move was seen as a way to reconnect Burberry with its roots while simultaneously setting a new course for the future. Lee also made changes to the logo, opting for a more elegant font that blended elements of the brand’s previous logos from different eras. This decision reflected Lee’s approach of respecting the brand’s heritage while introducing modern, refined updates.
In February 2023, Lee unveiled his highly anticipated debut collection for Burberry. The Fall-Winter 2023 collection was met with critical acclaim and signaled a new direction for the brand. Unlike his predecessor, Riccardo Tisci, who had embraced a more streetwear-oriented aesthetic, Lee’s collection focused on traditional British fashion elements, reimagined through a contemporary lens. He used muted colors, intricate layering, and sophisticated tailoring to create a collection that felt both fresh and timeless.
Notably absent from the collection was the conventional Burberry check, a deliberate choice by Lee to signal that the brand could stand on its own merits without relying too heavily on its most recognizable pattern. Instead, Lee introduced toned-down versions of the check and incorporated new motifs, suggesting a willingness to innovate while still paying homage to Burberry’s iconic imagery. His designs struck a balance between luxury and wearability, appealing to both fashion insiders and the broader public.
Lee’s debut collection was praised for its coherence and vision, and it set high expectations for his future work with Burberry. His ability to blend British heritage with modern design sensibilities resonates with both traditional Burberry customers and a younger, fashion-conscious audience.
Burberry Today
As Burberry entered this new chapter under Daniel Lee’s creative leadership, the brand is well-positioned to navigate the complexities of the modern fashion landscape. The global fashion industry is more competitive than ever, with brands constantly vying for the attention of a digitally savvy, socially conscious, and increasingly discerning consumer base. Burberry’s ability to adapt to these changing dynamics while staying true to its heritage will be crucial in determining its continued success.
One of the key challenges and opportunities for Burberry moving forward will be how it balances tradition with innovation. The brand’s iconic trench coats, check patterns, and classic British style are its greatest assets, but they must be continually reinterpreted to remain relevant. Lee’s work suggests that he understands this balance, and his focus on modernizing these elements without losing their essence will likely remain a central theme of his tenure.
